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Woodworking Terms
| Joinery | ||
| Type of Joint | Picture | Description |
| Dovetail |  |
Mostly known for being used in drawer construction, this is one of the strongest mechanical joints there is. Its beauty is often used as a part of the design element, and can be either machine cut or cut by hand. Hand cut dovetailing is an art form in itself and allows for endless opportunities for artistic flair. |
| Sliding Dovetail |  |
This is a very strong joint that can be used in cross-grain situations where a joint is necessary yet wood movement must be maintained. Adhesive is used only in the center of the joint allowing the sides to slide along the groove. |
| Half-lap |  |
Primarily used in cabinet door construction, a strong joint that may also have wooden pins placed through its face for both structural and decorative purposes. |
| Mortise and Tenon |  |
A classic joint made famous by the works of Greene & Greene, Stickley, and Frank Lloyd Wright. One of the most widely used joints in furniture construction, it may also have wooden pins placed through its face for both structural and decorative purposes. |
| Through Mortise and Tenon |  |
A more decorative version of the M&T joint shown above, there are many variations such as pegged outside out the joint or split with a contrasting decorative wood as shown to the left. |
| Tongue-and-Groove |  |
A system of joinery used to extend the width of a board. This is often used for cabinets backs and may or may not include a decorative bead. |
| Bridal |  |
A very strong joint used when heavy forces are put on its members, it efficiently allows for the transfer of stress. |
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Biscuit One of the most widely used joints in manufacturing, along with the Doweled Joint, this has limited strength and no decorative value. |
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Pocket Hole Widely used in cabinet door and face frame construction, it's strength relies on the use of metal screws and adhesives. The holes may or may not be filled with specially made inserts that may be of a contrasting wood species for decorative value. |
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Doweled One of the most widely used joints in manufacturing, along with the Biscuit Joint, this has limited strength and no decorative value. |
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| Wood Movement Concerns & Solutions | ||
| Term | Picture | Description |
| Expansion |  |
Wood is effected by humidity. As the humidity levels rise, the wood absorbs the moisture and will expand, with the greatest expansion occurring perpendicular to its grain direction. The expansion will happen more easily and to a greater extent in the wide spacing of grain than in the narrow. If this expansion is restricted by another board being permanently fasten to it in a cross grain situation, then the wood will either bow or split. Conversely, if it is restricted when drying, the wood will split and pop. Some extreme cases will even sound like a gun shot. |
| Cross Grain Fasteners |  |
To properly attach a table top to its base, a mechanical fastener is used. This allows the top to expand and contract with the seasons. As it does, it slides along the groove cut into the table apron. These fasteners may be made of wood, or metal as shown. |
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Door Construction (Solid Wood) |
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If you live in an area with great changes in humidity, there are ways of compensating for that. One such way is to incorporate a cabinet door that has an overlap instead of being inset. This allows for a little more room for expansion during seasonal changes but will not leave a noticeable gap. |
| Veneer Construction |
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A lot of today's furniture is constructed using veneers. This is a process where a very thin piece of wood is glued to either side of a stable core, many times particle board which is nothing more than glue and sawdust pressed together. This allows for a very little, if any, movement caused by humidity. It also allows for the use of expensive wood at an inexpensive price because only a sliver of "the good stuff" is actually being used. Of course if there is ever a desire to repair or refinish the piece, it is close to impossible because of the veneer being so thin |
| Finishing | ||
| Term | Picture | Description |
| Scraping |  |
Although many people feel that sand paper is the best method for smoothing wood, a cabinet scraper in the proper hands can give a glass smooth finish. |
| Grain Filling |  |
A process that involves creating a "slurry" mixture to fill in the tiny pores in the wood. This technique greatly enhances the character of the wood and results in a smooth, consistent finish. |
| Oils |   |
Tung, Boiled Linseed, Walnut, Danish, Teak, are just a few of the oils available to enhance wood. Protective coatings may be applied once the oil has completely dried. |
| Poly-urethane |  |
The best choice for "high traffic" table tops due to its ability to handle fluid spills. The quality of the components used will determines its ability to not yellow over time. |
| Shellac |  |
In spite of all the wonders of 21st century chemistry, there is still no other finish that enhances the depth and beauty of wood like shellac. |
| French Polish |  |
This is where effort equals results. A beautiful finish that requires good old fashioned elbow grease. Think of it as giving the piece of furniture a day at the spa. |
| Varnish |  |
A good quality varnish will give a hard, clear, durable finish, though they are usually glossy. Exterior grade, or Spar Varnishes, are widely used in wooden boat finishing. |